What if we told you that just half an hour from downtown Θεσσαλονίκη there is a golden, leafy escape full of crisp air, soft forest light and the kind of silence you feel in your chest? Mount Chortiatis is exactly that. It is close enough to visit without planning yet wild enough to reset your brain the moment you step under the trees. Locals love it for hiking, trail running, mushroom spotting or simply leaning back on a wooden bench with a hot tea.
We followed one of the most beloved routes, the Monopati ton Pagopoion, the Trail of the Ice Makers, and ended our walk at the mountain shelter with warm food and a fresh beer.
Reaching Chortiatis is exceptionally simple. By car it takes around thirty minutes from the centre and you can leave it right at the start of the trail. The local bus number 61 also brings you to Chortiatis village (instructions here!), so even without a car this small escape is fully accessible.
As soon as you step out of the vehicle the city feels distant. The red rooftops of the village spread below you, the valleys open up and the forest begins only a few steps away.
The route begins with a small uphill that warms you up before easing into a softer climb. Soon the sounds of the city fade and you walk through a tunnel of trees glowing in warm yellows and oranges. Leaves crunch under your shoes, the light becomes gentler and the whole forest feels like it has wrapped itself around you.
Every now and then you catch a glimpse of Θεσσαλονίκη ή Lake Koroneia through the branches, a quiet reminder of how close the city is even though it feels worlds away.
This path is not only beautiful but carries the memory of a unique mountain craft. The Monopati ton Pagopoion, the Trail of the Ice Makers, owes its name to the people who once produced natural ice here. Long before refrigerators existed, families on Chortiatis used the freezing winter nights to create ice, storing it inside deep stone chambers called magazia.
Packed with layers of fern and branches for insulation, the ice remained frozen until summer. When the heat arrived in Θεσσαλονίκη, the ice makers would load the blocks onto mules and carry them down to the city where they were sold for cool drinks and sweet refreshments.
As you walk, you can still spot remains of these magazia and the flat open spaces where the ice was once formed.
Chortiatis is full of small treasures for anyone who pays attention. We noticed an owl resting quietly on a branch, so well camouflaged it felt like part of the tree. Mushrooms appear everywhere under the leaves in different colours and shapes, while chestnut and walnut trees rise above the path.
Depending on the season you might also meet people gathering wood or see mules carrying neatly stacked logs. These everyday scenes add an authentic local touch to the hike and make the forest feel alive in its own quiet rhythm.
After around six and a half kilometres the forest thins out and the mountain shelter comes into view. Built from stone and tucked among tall beech trees, it sits at about a thousand metres altitude and feels like a warm, welcoming stop at the end of the trail.
Inside you can relax with homemade dishes, a hot mountain tea or a cold beer that tastes especially rewarding after the uphill. On weekends the shelter fills with hikers and families, creating a friendly atmosphere that makes you want to linger a little longer.
For the journey back you can return the same way through the forest or follow the wider loop that opens into bigger landscapes. As you descend, the view stretches over Lake Koroneia, the fields and the rooftops of Chortiatis village. Autumn paints everything in warm tones that make it almost impossible not to slow down and take it all in.
Mount Chortiatis is the perfect half day escape for anyone living in or visiting Θεσσαλονίκη. It pairs easy access with real mountain atmosphere, a trail full of character, unexpected wildlife moments and a shelter that rewards every step with warmth and good food.
You need nothing more than comfortable shoes and a bit of curiosity. Within an hour you can go from city streets to golden forest paths and return home feeling like you spent a whole day in nature.
If you are craving a break, grab your backpack and head to Chortiatis. Your weekend retreat is waiting just above the city!
Photos: @teo13g
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